About our rv water heater repair service
RV water heaters run on LP gas, on 120V electric, or on both, and each mode fails differently. On the gas side we check LP pressure and supply, the gas valve, the igniter and electrode gap, the thermocouple or sense circuit, the burner tube for obstructions — mud daubers are a real problem in Florida — and the control board that ties it together. On the electric side we test the heating element, thermostat, high-limit switch, wiring and the switch itself.
Tankless and on-demand units have their own logic: flow sensors, minimum flow rates, error codes and winterization requirements. We diagnose those by their fault codes and measurements rather than guessing, and we explain what the code actually means for your unit.
Maintenance matters more than owners expect. Flushing the tank, replacing the anode rod on steel tanks, checking the pressure relief valve and clearing the burner tube each season prevents most of the failures we get called out for. Sediment shortens element life, a spent anode rod destroys a tank from the inside, and a blocked burner tube turns into a no-heat call at the worst time.
If a tank is corroded through or a unit is beyond economical repair, we tell you plainly and can install a replacement at your location, sized and configured for how you actually use the rig.